No More Algae

After my DIY CO2 system ( empty Arizone Tea Company gallon jug fitted with air line tubing and a pacaket of yeast) started making a difference (in a week) to all of my plants I got a very unwelcomed byproduct - Algae. Big Time. So after the unreal algae bloom I took matters into my own hands. After some internet research I found that a UV Sterlizer would not only address the algae but also prevent water borne diseases like "Ich". So I found a unit that could be mounted in the tank without the need for an exeternal pump and line plumbing. It's called the Submariner 7 (7W) and after about a week of poeration I found the tank to be clearer than I have ever seen it. I bought it from drsfostersmith. I even bought a spare bulb, when mine came in the bulb was broken and they shipped me another - no charge. This water is what I dreamed about when starting the aquarium.

Here is the latest pic:

Algae/Bateria Bloom

After doing a water change and maintenance on my tank last week my water turned milky white and cloudy. I left it for two days (using water clarifier) to see if it would clear. It did not. I did some quick research aand mistakenly learned that it was a algae bloom when it was actually a bacteria bloom. When cleaning I changed both filters bags at the same time - a big NO-NO.
I bought a chemical to remove the algae, applied it and the very same day the water was crystal clear. The cost - All of my guppies died, one rasbora and one neon.

Latest Tank Changes

With the new lights I needed a new hood since the Nova Extremes would not seal the top of the tank. I built a hinged hood out of oak, painted it black and installed the lights. It looks great. With the new lights I purchased some plants and I am trying to make that work. Most of them look unhealthy and have algea growing on them. At least my tank is starting to cycle where the ammonia is low (gone) but the nitrates are high (5ppm) although I purchased some Kordon stuff to reduce it. 20% water changes are done every other day so far to bring the nitrite down. No luck there but the tank has cleared. New tank additions have been an African dwarf frog, 2 phantom tetras, a fantail goldfish and two skeleton catfish. All seem to be doing well. I also started phasing out the manmade decorations with stones boiled from my back yard and have started aquascaping with the plants.

Quantine Tank Idea

With my first outbreak of Ich I understand the need for a quantine tank. Just think, you figure everything out, you're happy with 30 or so very happy fish and your decide for that one more perfect addition. You acclaminate it and it is happy. Two days later your fish start to die, then your whole tank is empty because of one sick fish....
Get a minimal quantine tank and a dose of patience.
Now here is the best idea. Get a Black Moor to put into your quantine tank. If Ich is a disease that causes white spots then what better fish to have as an indicator than an all black fish (kind of like dandruff on your black suit). My Black Moor was the first sign of Ich (maybe even the carrier) but he is as good as any test kit around. He is also the biggest dumbest oaf in the tank so he weathered the Ich just fine. If there are signs of Ich then the smaller quantine tank is much easier to treat than your bigger tank. A $3.00 investment and a happy inhabitant of the lonely quantine tank.

Already Remodeling

So, after the first week with a long and skinny 55 gallon tank I have come to the conclusion that I don't like the layout. Since I have Ich and I am treating my tank I might as well take the opportunity to put the fish in a much smaller quarantine tank (reduces my water changes->effort->money) and remodel my present tank layout. First I want to darken the substrate and make sure it is plant friendly, then I want to get rid of the LFS ornaments (columns and coral) and replace them with real Vermont slate and live plants. I want a more natural looking tank to express and accentuate the plants and fish.



Here is a sketch of the new layout.














Here is the new floorplan

My First Breakout Of ICH

Well, last night I lost two fish to Ich plus my frog. One tetra and one black moor one African Dwarf Frog. It is really noticeable on my larger moor and developed in a matter of days. I did some research and seem to have the definative cure for Ich and will share both the information and the results here. Basically you are in for a week long burden (That will teach you to not quantine your newly acquired fish for two weeks, it taught me).

First my explaination here is much shorter than you can find on the web but I get the point across. If you want to learn more in depth information just google.

Now to cure ich will take about $15 worth of Kordon Rid-Ich+ medication for a 55gallon, about $4 for a smaller tank and de-chlorinator.

Here is the deal:

• Do not raise water temp as most sites tell you, it is unneccesary with the meds I indicate and will stress your fish out even more.
• Just becuase one fish has ich does not mean all of them will have it, it just depends on each individuals health (so don't panic)
• You will need to do 25% water changes everyday for 7 days
• You will need to remove your carbon filters during this entire time
• You will need de-chlorinator for the water changes

Now just add 5ml of Rid-Ich+ per 10 gallons everyday for 7 days right after a 25% water change. This will get rid of the disease in the tank, off the plants and off the fish. Stick to the 7 days even if there are no more signs of ich on the fish as ich can still live in the water on on other things while off your fish (think fleas here, off the dog and in the carpet).

Done. Simple. Ich Free.

Aquatic Lighting

If I were to buy a lighting system I would prefer one unit that provides both daylight and lunar light. I found one on the web called the Nova Extreme T5. It is over 3.5W/gallon and I can control the lights so that I get only half, full plus lunar lights on a timer ($25.00). I find that the lights go for about $1/Watt which seems to be universal. Also all I need at a minimum is something to provide 2Watts/Gallon and since I have a 55gallon this unit exceeds my requirements and no buyers remorse since I bought the in class.

Things to consider when buying lights:

1. UL Certified (if it burns down your house, your insurance company will pay)


2. Meets minimum 2W/Gallon in order to support plants


3. Internal fan to cool off lamps and ballast


4. The way it mounts (you may need a glass tank cover because you will have to throw your old hood away)


5. Individual power cords if buying a 24hour system (lets you put the day time/night time on a timer)

Nova Extreme T-5 HO Lights

Very Ugly, Very Bright Lights